LEMURS' PARK - 3rd October, 2018

Before you read any further, may I suggest you take a moment or two for some mouth and lip exercise. You are going to need it. Now, I won't be seeing or hearing you, but believe me your enjoyment level will be heightened and you will be catapulted to instant comedy fame if you promise to pronounce aloud, some of the words appearing in this particular blog!!

Over the last couple of years our home here in Antananarivo has become a place for overnight and weekend guests some of which are becoming more than guests and actually becoming our friends. I'm not too sure about the others!

For the weekend and oft returning friends we inevitably take a drive to the Lemurs' Park, a botanical park situated next to the Katsaoka River and neatly place between the villages of Fenoarivo and Imerintsiatosika, approximately 22 km southwest of our bustling city, traveling in the same direction as Ampefy.....(there is a very interesting earlier blog re our trip to Ampefy, if you're interested!)

This beautiful river although it looks muddy is certainly not polluted and forms a perfect barrier for the lemurs being rehabilitated, bred and re-introduced into nature. Lemurs do not like water, so much so that they don't even drink it! Gaining moisture from dew collected in leaves, plants and flowers and from their fruit diet. So there's no way they will be adventurous and leave the park. There is however a wall that surrounds the park on the road side and they do sometimes take a hike and explore.

As you've gathered the park functions as a lemur reserve that gradually reintroduces captive-born lemurs back into nature.

Most of the nine lemur species within the park are free-ranging, which means you get up close to observe them. No handling of the lemurs is permitted.

The Crowned Sifaka lemur enjoying munchies, per kind favour of the people who so lovingly look after them.

The Black and White Ruffed lemur relaxing after lunch.

The Lemurs' Park was founded in 2000 by Laurent Amouric and Maxime Allorge, the grandson of Pierre Boiteau, who is the Founding Director of the Tsimbazaza Zoo, Antananarivo.

The park also collaborates with Colas Madagascar and TOTAL Madagascar to provide environmental education to local primary school children and to plant endemic trees as part of a reforestation program. Most of the park's staff come from the neighbouring communities.

The guides we have encountered on our numerous trips to the park are extremely well-informed and many of them speak English.

Our visit to the park in 2014 when our son Alistair came to visit.

Strolling along behind I took this photo of the photographers!

Featured daily feeding times occur every two hours between 10h00 and 16h00. There are seven lemur species active during the day (diurnal) and two are active at night (nocturnal).

We were fortunate to be able to see and photograph these nocturnal lemurs in 2014.
These lemurs, chierogaleidae, are the family of strepsirrhine primates containing the various dwarf and mouse lemurs, cheirogaleids live exclusively on our mad magical island of Madagascar. The park houses at least two of these species.

There is a little restaurant at the park as well as a gift shop. My honest opinion, the gift shop needs a revamp and so does the restaurant!

Consequently, we usually just buy bottled water while taking the tour or have a Sprite and some beers after the tour!

Within the park one encounters not just lemurs, but chameleons, iguanas and various other lizards plus the radiated tortoise.....

The radiated tortoise is a species in the family Testudinidae. Although the species is endemic to and most abundant in Southern Madagascar, it can also be found in the rest of this mad magical island and has been introduced to the islands of Re'union and Mauritius. These tortoises live for many years. The oldest recorded age is 188 years! The radiated tortoises are classified as critically endangered by
the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature), mainly because of the destruction of their habitat and because of poaching.

They live and breed in a special enclosure in the park.

The park, which consists primarily of pine forest and bamboo vegetation, contains nearly 6,000 trees and more than 70 plant species endemic to Madagascar, all of which are segregated into separate climatic zones throughout the park.

Here we are standing in front of the Vietnam bamboo, which everyone refers to as the barcode bamboo, due to the markings on the bamboo that resemble a barcode.

The green Japanese bamboo.....

Hilton and Tamara taking a photo of a Coquerel's Sifaka in the green bamboo...

"Like I hang around posing for tourists all day!" And such a pose it is!

Brown bamboo lemurs having a scuttle in the Vietnam bamboo, trying to escape the barcode stamp?

Bamboo lemur playing with the string from which his feeding bowl is hanging.....

Black and white ruffed lemur taking a break after lunch!

Coquerel sifakas giving us the beady eye......

The lemurs are such fascinating creatures, their paws/hands are extremely soft to the touch (I know this from places where people are allowed to interact with the lemurs) and when I see them jumping around in the trees with such ease I know how lithe, agile and strong their bodies are.

What an awesome sight to see the dancing sifaka on the ground. High up in the trees they swing from branch to branch, tree to tree vertically and are unable to walk on the ground hence their dancing movement that is extremely quick, but magnificent.

This dancing lemur is done for the day....just chilling!

As entertaining as the lemurs are the flora is also most unusual.

Tamara is standing almost under the umbrella tree.....

One of my favourite trees in summer or winter, when the branches are bare.

High up in the trees you will be surprised, or not, to spy the Hamerkop nests. A South African bird that also takes up residence here on the island. I suspect it's the mad magic it's after!

I must admit I've seen the nests but never the bird!

Last month we saw this dwarf baobab in bloom. What a pretty sight to behold. The flowers are taller than the tree!

The Saturday we visited the park with Alan and Christine was awash with summer sunlight which highlighted some winter worn bedraggled lemurs. It's extremely dry this time of year, late winter early spring. The ground is thirsty for rain.

This crowned sifaka, just hanging in the shade.

So I took a little break for the traditional shadow photos!

And paused beside the lily pond.....

Then wandered over to the spiny plant bearing the most gorgeous red flowers known to the locals as
"Crown of Christ".

The guides always leave the ring tail lemurs till last. The lemurs made famous from the movie Madagascar (which has nothing to do with Madagascar but for King Julian!)

There are 14 white and 14 black rings on the tail.....yes, I can see you counting them! I kid you not.

Happy little family scene. Have you spotted the baby clinging to Mama?

And so we discovered this statue overlooking a valley of tranquillity....Never noticed it before, but this time our guide was insistent that our friends find more lemurs to photograph, hence Alan in the background.....I don't know if the statue was one of Mary, and I didn't think to ask Alan!

Yeah, I bet you can't see him!

There he is wearing the green shirt and there I am, sitting pretty as a fairy because......

Hilton is leaning against an upside down tree......

Now who said this wasn't a mad magical island!

The Plague and my Penny's Worth! - 20th October, 2017

Unfortunately this entry will never be my favourite nor will it convey the beauty of the magic of this island I'm so fond of sharing. I was sorely tempted to let it be but then decided I should contribute my penny's worth.

So far on this Indian Ocean Island, 684 plague cases have been reported as well as 57 deaths. The plague is expected to increase before it decreases. The facts I've gleaned have been from news reports on the Internet, CNN, VOX and the World Health Organisation as well as the International Federation of the Red Cross (IFRC).

Let me explain what the plague is:

Plague is caused by infection with the bacterium Yersinia pestis and is typically spread through the bite of infected fleas, frequently carried by rats, causing bubonic plague. Symptoms include painful swollen lymph nodes, called bubos, as well as fever, chills and coughing.

This is almost an annual occurrence on the island, due to the squalor of the immense poverty encountered here. The people are resigned to its outbreak, especially during the rainy season, normally between November and March. But this year, the outbreak happened three months earlier, in August.  I surmise because of its earlier than usual appearance, the Ministry of Health was caught unawares. The plague outbreak has been exacerbated by the disease advancing to the more dangerous and damaging stage know as:

Pneumonic plague, which is more virulent, and is characterised by a severe lung infection. The infection can be transmitted from person to person via airborne droplets - coughing or sneezing. The incubation period is short, and an infected person may die within 12 to 24 hours. It is this aspect of the disease that is causing the most stress for medical practitioners.

The IFRC has stressed the importance of getting local communities to understand the difference in this year's outbreak, as they are used to outbreaks of bubonic plague, spread by rats and fleas, rather than humans.

Both forms of the disease can be treated with antibiotics, making early detection a priority. Occasionally there can be cases of:

Septicemic plague, where the infection has spread to a person's bloodstream and can cause bleeding and necrosis of tissue, turning it black.

The government has mobilised resources to spray schools and other public places, in order to try and curb the spread of infection.

On a more humorous note, seeing as though we're talking about rodents and fleas, There is a veterinary clinic and shop one bypasses on the way to the airport. It has a sign that reads: "Flea baths here," I wonder if they will spray those baths!

They will be spraying Hilton's work on Saturday morning. He will be opening up the workshop areas and offices that he is responsible for, and I will accompany him, because I'm that curios. Medical examinations are being carried out on all staff members as an added precaution.

Public schools are closed and the government has forbidden all public gatherings.

It is believed the outbreak began by the death of a man travelling in a taxi enroute from Toamasina to Antananarivo.

 Photos to give you an idea of everyday life here on the island:

In the rainy season....

View overlooking Tana, from Isoraka.

In the above photo, this is a street in which any kind of tyre or car part can be purchased. It is a very depressing street, especially when it rains. It leads to the shopping mall known as Tana Waterfront. Not my favourite street.

I have a few photos taken in Taolagnaro, before the main street was tarred.

In the above photo, I sat watching the children playing "shop-shop", only their imaginative play was taking place in an area few of us would ever picture our children or grandchildren playing in, yet they were happy and enjoying each others' company and I dare say enjoying the moment they had to actually play, before it was back to "chore time."

I'm appalled by this island's government and it's inability to address the issues that can improve the living conditions of it's people.

The simple fact that a disease such as the plague recurs on an annual basis, is proof enough that the powers that be are simply not interested.

I'm not living with my head in the clouds. I know it is a huge infrastructure challenge. But if not now, when? Surely there should be some form of prevention? I continue to question the effectiveness of world organisations that come into so-called third world countries to improve the standard of living and want to offer whatever other humanitarian aid they need. How come these countries just cannot rise to another level?

How come roads that are built by other countries simply don't last? What happens to the money given for sanitation improvement?

How come we don't treat all of humanity with the dignity they so rightly deserve?

La Pirogue - Mahambo, June 2017 - finally completed 17 October, 2017.

La Pirogue is a charming resort right on the white sandy beach of the Indian Ocean; only beware, your feet take quite a pounding as you hastily enter the water. You will find yourself in all sorts of peculiar positions if your feet are not "rock hardy!" And then as you pick yourself up you will be embarrassed to discover the water only comes up to your knees and you will have to wade real far out to eventually enjoy a swim in the calm ocean with gentle swells. But if you did take a moment before lunging into the water, you will notice a little cove near the restaurant that says: "No swimming" because the current can be a bit strong. If you are a reasonably competent swimmer, this is where you go swimming. I guarantee you water deeper than your knees!

The La Pirogue bay is ideal for snorkelling, but alas, as you will discover from the photographs, there is not much ocean life to behold due to the fishing, so just practise your snorkelling skill!

You will find La Pirogue as you travel north from Toamasina/Tamatave up the east coast. It is advertised as a one hour drive from Toamasina, but the condition of the road and your bravery will determine how long that hour is!

Little girl filling in potholes

You won't find yourself becoming bored as you encounter interesting scenes along the road.

An eel, in case you want to cook a quick snack!

He hangs out here in summer!

Rivers are full at the end of the rainy season

Turn off from Mahambo to La Pirogue

La Pirogue is situated on the coastal side of Mahambo, which is a town and commune (Malagasy: Kaominina). It belongs to the district of Fenerive Est, which is part of Analanjirofo region.
The estimated population in 2001 was twenty-six thousand.
Primary and junior level secondary education is available in the town.
80% of the population of the commune are farmers.
The most important crops are rice and bananas, while the other important products are cloves and lychees.
Services provide employment for 17% of the population and fishing employs 3% of the population.

Mahambo

Entry road into the resort

This little restaurant is so inviting with its colourful curtains, la boheme style! All along the little streets leading to the seaside, one can find interesting little eateries and curios endemic to the area.

Because it was Hilton's birthday treat, we of course booked the largest villa, right on the beach front. 

So let me take you upstairs first. The most important room next to the bathroom!

I love the idea of original art on an easel in the bedroom, la boheme for sure. Of course the view overlooking the ocean, through the balcony door creates that mad magical island moment!

The staircase creates quite the challenge when it has to be navigated in the dead of night for a trip to the WC! But there is always a statue of a lady and her baby to keep you company and awake while on your nightly trip......

The wood carvings are quite exquisite in their own way and the doors tell a story.......

The balcony door

The front door

Bathrooms in Madagascar always lend an air of intrigue. This one was quite pretty, but alas! the water pressure is quite a challenge and that is what the plastic bowl is for, not for rinsing our feet off at the front door, but catching the water to have a kind of bath/shower!

There is an alcove with a beautiful wooden ship, that produced night sweats of the nightmare variety!

Laying in bed at night we were woken up with a crunching noise like sweet papers being scrunched and something munching away on the wood! Could it be beetles? Downstairs there was another ship on top of another beautifully carved cupboard......

Prince Charming himself relaxing on the couch. After exploring some of the smaller villas, we came to this conclusion: It was a treat in the big villa that had "room service" but it was far too cluttered and overpowering with all the wooden decor items. Should we consider a return visit a smaller villa will suffice.

The sunsets and sunrises were magnificent in their simple glory..........

A new day dawning....

in all its magnificence.....

An early morning stroll along the beach brings peace to the soul as one revels in the silence of the world and takes solace in the gentle lapping of the waves.......

And others bring back little treasures gathered in folded corners of a scarf.......

just like a sea gypsy.......

Some have been up for hours.........

bringing in their catch.........

Even the sails tell a story.......

The early morning ignites the imagination......

One day when we are big, like our fathers, we too shall bring home the fish.......

The fishing nets get dragged everyday, the bellies are empty, the ocean is tired, where are the fish?

Before the fishing nets are packed away another human is found dreaming and wondering how long it will take for the water to fill the paddle canoe before he has to return to reality!

I dreamed.....

a dream.......

And then one morning the rain came for a visit and on went the plastic bags!

Dad brings in the catch.......

and despite the rain......

we all help and fold up the net.

One morning as we took a wander down some paths and around a corner, we discovered that literally just round the corner of the beach was a "boat stop market!" In other words a collection point for people waiting to catch the two and a half hour El Condor catamaran ferry from Mahambo to St. Marie. 

This is a 27m catamaran with twin 500hp engines seating 104 passengers. But first the passengers had to endure a short ferry from shore to catamaran. The luggage and other paraphernalia followed. Once the catamaran sets out, it is suggested you keep your motion sickness tablets handy should you suffer from sea or motion sickness, because a rough sea is bound to be encountered.

Could be fun!

Shortly after the catamaran set off we wandered back along the beach and found these delightful young ladies sorting our their fish purchases.

The resort gardens are pretty much the same as our villa. Very busy! But interesting.

It's a case of "spot our Hilton, not our Willie!"

Happy and relaxed in the garden!

Always ready for some fun...

And then there is always......

a dog..

a cat

and a bird

We enjoyed some interesting moments in the restaurant being entertained by an unusual guest.

The name of our guest: Liz-Zard the curious.

After enjoying a cool sip and a tasty lick Liz-zard scuttled away to a secret place in the tree tops.......

The food was delicious and the presentation added to the enjoyment of being on a mad magical island.

The swimming cove is hiding to Hilton's left.......

And so our last night arrives and because it's raining we order our supper via the room service. We don't finish up the rolls and leave them covered over for the staff to fetch in the morning. We are leaving very early.

Remember the crunching paper and the mention of beetles? An early morning visit to the WC reveals a partially eaten bread roll laying on the floor and the lid that was covering the plate, lies all askew on the table! MICE! (and probably beetles). Oh no! So much for the magic.........

It is still raining as we head out. Remember the road?

Soon though a beautiful rainbow smiles on us......

We travel via Toamasina, sighing at the beautiful gift of nature.

The lush, green palm groves.

One of the many bridges one travels over on any given road on this mad magical island.

As we cross this bridge, I'm reminded to quickly swallow my motion sickness tablets, this is a very long and winding road, all five hours plus of it, till we reach our overnight destination, Feony 'ny Ala, situated in Andasibe.

Yes, one never knows much about anything on this island and sometimes a handy man has to make his own magic, especially when he enjoys a vigorous shower......